|1992 Williams The Getaway: High Speed II|
|"Shift Into High Gear!"|
|Game Serial Number: 5004 104982||Getaway Photo Album|
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Getaway was a sequel the the immensely popular High Speed. Although it was considered by many as a "warmed over, rushed" sequel to High Speed, many collectors now revere Getaway as one of their favorite machines. Take High Speed, add a Dot Matrix Display, better sound, faster gameplay, and a ramp on Steroids, The Supercharger, and you've got The Getaway: High Speed II.
The theme of Getaway is classic - run from the cops. Who doesn't like to drive fast? Who wouldn't love to run from the cops if there were no real repercussions from doing so? Run the red light.. and Getaway!
The story of my Getaway:
After purchasing my High Speed, I wanted another pin. I went to an auction, and 3 pins caught my eye: a Guns N Roses, a F-14 Tomcat and a Getaway. I ended up buying the Guns N Roses because it was working almost 100% and the Getaway was powered off, with the coin door and the backbox locked. The Getaway also had a lock bar over the coin door, which meant the cabinet was "drilled". Drilled cabinets aren't that tough to fix in most cases (fill the hole with a dowel of the same size, patch with some bondo, sand to level, and touch up). The Getaway sold for $450, and the F-14 sold for $500ish. I could have had both pins for the price of the GnR, I've kicked myself over that a million times, especially since I now own a Getaway and a F-14 Tomcat, and I sold the GnR so quickly.
After shopping out the Guns N Roses, it didn't do much for me, and I wanted a Getaway badly after playing one. The only problem was, I needed to find the money to finance the Getaway. I made several attempts to sell the GnR, and ended up eventually trading it to a fellow collector in Iowa, Scott Ruttencutter. Scott was able to sell it in less than a week, it figures :) In exchange, I got a Getaway that had been near a fire and had heavy paint damage to the front of the cabinet. The rest of the cabinet was mostly unfaded, although the backbox had a few gouges. The coin door needed new coin reject buttons and paint. The bottom of the cabinet needs replacing, due to a little moisture. Some of the under playfield bits and pieces were rusted.
After a 40-80 hour refurb process, all new bulbs, a ring kit, and a couple gallons of Novus #'s 1, 2, and 3, the pin gleamed like it was almost new. I polished all of the metal hardware in a Parts Polisher from Berry MFG for 72-96 hours. Some pieces wouldn't fit, so they were polished by hand using Novus #3 and Xtreem Metal Polish. The only piece which doesn't look quite like I want it is the front panel of the cabinet. The heat cracked a bit of the paint, and it's not going to be easy to touch up work. I'm probably going to scan the bad artwork, re-touch it, and print out a new front panel "decal". I might just opt to re-paint the whole cabinet at some point.
I did have to replace a few non-normal shop out parts, but most were provided to me with the game. Scott included a used but nice DMD cover panel, NOS Supercharger plastic and NOS stop light plastic to replace heat warped plastics. I installed aftermarket goodies including Pinball Pro BulletProof Plastic Protectors and Ken Iman's Mirror Glazed Pinballs. Although the pinballs are nice and shiny, I won't be giving Ken another cent of my money - so don't buy them! I moved the batteries off the CPU board using Steve Trischetta's "No Fuss" Remote Battery Kit. I also replaced the Leg Levelers with Plastiglide levelers from Matt Osborn. The coin door had melted mechanisms, which I could not find anywhere, so I contacted Carson Johnson at Entropy International. Carson sold me a NOS Williams Pinball 2000 Coin Door, with a WPC converter. The converter allowed the door to plug directly into the coin interface board. My lockdown bar had some strange weld damage, so I replaced it with a bar from another parts game I had.
There are plenty of pictures on the picture page, take a look if you're interested. In the future, I'd like to have the playfield touched up and clearcoated, fix or re-paint the cabinet, and replace the cabinet bottom. Most everything works perfectly at this point, and Getaway ROCKS!
Update: I have purchased a set of cabinet artwork from Phoenix Arcade, and plan to restore the game completely this winter.
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Page last updated Wednesday June 13, 2007
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